Autumn color @ Yoyogi Park: Nov. 7, 2010

Tokyo is now changing its colors. The autumn colors (yellow and red) has started.

I visited Yoyogi Park today.

The gingko leaves have changed from green to yellow.

The leaves were partly green, yellow and red in the Yoyogi Park.

People were jogging and walking under the trees. Some grounds were covered with fallen leaves.

It is autumn.

Tokaido Walk (3) Kawasaki～Yokohama (off Tokyo)：Nov. 6, 2010

I took the 3rd part of my Tokaido Walk today. It was from Kawasaki to Kanagawa shukuba (Edo period’s station), which is near today’s JR (Japan Railways) Yokohama station.

The old Tokaido runs through the central part of Kawasaki city. The old road has converted into a shopping street in the central part of Kawasaki city. Monuments and sign boards tell the history of the Kawasaki shukuba station. Old Kawasaki shukuba station had more than 70 inns in the Edo period.

There is a monument of Haiku poet Matsuo Basho at the west end of the old station. Historical temples remain here and there.
I also found a monument to console the soil of dead people near Basho’s monument. Countless people who died during their travels were buried here (just outside the shukuba station) in the Edo era. Many bones were found after the Meiji period. The bones also tell us the reality of the travel in the Edo period.

I crossed Tsurumi River and entered into Tokohama City. Small residence houses stand along old Tokaido. What I found included:

- Milestones: The Tokugawa government built milestones in every 4 kilometers along Tokaido.

- A ruin of old gate: the gate checked the people who tried to enter Kanagawa shukuba station. Many foreign people lived in Kanagawa shukuba station in the end of Edo period. Some extreme Japanese wanted to expel foreigners and tried to attack them. The Tokugawa government tried to prevent such actions and built the gate.

- Trueumi Station (Keihin Kyuko): the station is built along old Tokaido. The old road is now uses as a shopping street in front of the station.

- A monument of Namamugi Incident: A British was killed by Japanese soldiers of Satsuma (Kagoshima) domain in 1862 (late Edo period) when the British tried to cross the road just before the Satsuma load tried to pass the point (The British was expected to wait and bow). The incident led Satsuma and the Britain to have a war, which became one of the important moves to the Meiji Revolution.

- A huge factory of Kirin Brewery: it is just behind the Namamugi Incident Monument.
The Old Tokaido road meets the National Rout 15 again at Namamugi area.

I walked westward along the National Rout 15, passed Shin-Koyasu and Higashi Kanagawa and arrived at Old Kanagawa shukuba station. Small Takinogawa River flows in the shukuba station.
Kanagawa had a good port and the Tokugawa government opened the area (along with several other areas) for foreigners in the late Edo period.
A part of old Tokaido has become a small shopping street here. Some temples remain here. They were used as boarding housed for foreigners in the late Edo era.
I passed the shukuba station and arrived at the nearest point to current JR Yokohama station.

Mt. Takao: Nov. 3, 2010

I climbed Mt. Takao in Hachioji City, western Tokyo.

The mountain may be most popular in great Tokyo area. It is 599m high. It takes only an hour from central Tokyo to the mountain.

The problem is -- it is too crowded in the peak seasons (the golden week holidays in May and the autumn color season in November).

I started climbing it in the afternoon to avoid the “traffic jam” (of the hikers) there.

The mountain have been worshipped by people. Shrines have been built and roads have been developed for the visitors. Some parts are now paved.

I found sculptures of Buddhism gods and Teng (long-nosed demons) in the shrines.

The mountain roads were not so steep. I found many huge cedar trees standing along the roads.
Only a few trees (maple etc.) have changed the color of their leaves. Full scale autumn red is expected in late November.

There was a big joy after the climb. Restaurant at the foot of the mountain served river fishes. It was sooooo nice.

Map: Mt. Takao

Harvest Festival @Nodai: Oct. 31, 2010

I visited the Harvest Festival of Nodai (Tokyo University of Agriculture) again. I　visited it on the same day (October 31th) last year.

There were many open-air stalls. They sold vegetables, fruits, flowers and other agricultural products. Some of them were from local villages where the university has its fields.

I bought a piece of tree trunk in which the seeds of Shiitake mushroom were planted. I will pick up some mushrooms in a few months if I am lucky.

I also visited the university’s coop store. Nodai brand Japanese sake, rice cakes and other products were sold.

English learning and job hunting books were popular in the book corner. There were many biology and agriculture-related books, too. Packs of organic rice were also sold.

The reputation of the university is getting better and the university is expanding its activities. Bio-technology and environment boom is behind the moves. I found a new building under construction.

Map: Tokyo University of Agriculture

Tokaido Walk(2) Omori-Kawasaki: Oct.11, 2010

Today is National Sports Day (2nd Monday of October).

Newspapers reported sports and health-related news. Many sports events were held throughout the nation.

I had the second part of my Tokaido walk. it was from Suzugamori (near JR Omori Station) to Kawaseki, the second shukuba station of the route.

Most part of Old Tokaido has been converted into the National Route 15 in the area. Still, some parts keep the old atmosphere.

About 1 kilometer-long Mihara Street is one of such example. There are small shops and restaurants along the narrow street. Traffic signs show “it is old Tokaido”.

Various marine products such as sea moss were produced here from the Edo period till early 20th century. Monuments in the street shows such history.

I again walked down the Route 15 southward. The trafic was heavy and I saw few people walking along the road. It is industrial area.

There are many small machine and parts manufacturers in Ota Ward. Some of them have world-class high technologies. It is said that the competitiveness of Japanese economy owes a lot to the area.

I arrived at the Tamagawa River, which devide Tokyo and Kanagawa Prefecture. They did not have a bridge over the river in the Edo era (except early Edo period) and people crossed the river by boats. The crossing point was called "Rokugo no watashi". There is a monument of the point.

I looked down the river from the bridge. The water was beautiful. I also found temporary shelters and blue plastic houses  in the riverfields. Many homeless people live here.

I entered Kawasaki City. It is about 15 minutes walk from Rokugo crossing point to JR Kawasaki Station.

Inns, stables and other travel facilities spread in the area in the Edo period. Now, stores, offices and amusement shops spread.

Map: Rokugo

Tokaido Walk (1): Sept. 25, 2010

Five major roads (Edo Five Routes) were built to connect Edo (Tokyo) and other parts of Japan in the Edo era. They are Tokaido, Nakasendo, Koshu Kaido, Oshu Kaido and Nikko Kaido.

Tokaido, which connects Edo and Kyoto through the Pacific coast area, was the most important and busiest  road in the Tokugawa Shogun era.

It was 495 kilometers from Edo (Nihonbashi) to Kyoto (Sanjo Ohashi). Tokaido had 53 stations (excluding Nihonbashi and Sanjo Ohashi) shich had traveler's inns, horse stables and other travel facilities. The stations were called “Shukuba”.

Most parts of Tokaido road have been redeveloped after the Meiji period and are now used as national highways. National Rout 1, which connects Tokyo and Kobe through Kyoto, runs on old Tokaido in many parts (National Rout 15 runs on old Tokaido in Tokyo).

Today, I took the first part of Tokaido walk.

All Edo Five Routs started Nihonbashi, which means Japan Bridge. It is about 1-2 kilometers east from the Imperial palace (former Edo Castle). The area is not far from the sea and was nearer from the seacoast in the Edo era.

There is a monument which shows "the basing point" of Japan’s roads. Many Edo people started their travels here.

However, it was difficult for me to feel historic mood. Many vehicles passed the bridge. A highway ran over the bridge. It was noisy. The river (canal) under the bridge was dirty.

Shops and offices spread around Nihonbashi.The headquarters of the Bank of Japan is in the area.

National Rout 15 runs on old Tokaido today. I walked westwards about 20 minutes and arrived in Ginza, one of Tokyo’s busiest shopping areas. The road was off vehicle.

I walked through Shinbashi, Shiba, Hamamatsucho, Tamachi and arrived in Shinagawa. It was about 7.5 kilometers and took about an hour and half.

There were many offices and apartments along the road. I also found historical buildings such as temples and shrines and monuments. The traffic was heavy in the road.

Shinagawa is the first station of Tokaido. The old Tokaido road remains in the area. It is a narrow street. Small shops and restaurants are along the street. There are many sign boards and flags which stress that "it is historic Shinagawa station of Tokaido".

They had a festival of Shinagawa shukuba (old station) today.

I walked about two hours and arrived at the ruin of an execution ground in Suzugamori. Rebels, murderers, arsonists and many other criminals were executed here. Some of them are historically famous. They include Marubashi Chuya, a rebel and Yaoya Ohichi, a youg woman arsonist. Their stories are played in the Kabuki plays.

The old Tokaido road meets National Rout 15 again at Suzugamori. It is about 12 kilometers from Nihonbashi.


Map: Nihonbashi
Map: Shinagawa
Map: Suzigamori

Sumo @ Setagaya Hachiman Shrine: Sept. 18, 2010

We usually imagine professional sumo wrestling when asked about sumo. It is broadcast nationwide by NHK (Japan’s public TV station) every two months. The professional wrestlers keep traditional hair style (They have topknots on their heads).


However, sumo is more than that.

Sumo is played widely by amateur players. It has strong ties with Japanese history, culture and society.

I visited Setagaya Hachiman Shrine to see votive sumo plays today.

The shrine holds the event every year to show its respect to the god. The event is held during the shrine’s autumn festival.

Total 20 sumo wrestlers from Tokyo University of Agriculture joined the event. Some of them are top-level amateur sumo players in Japan. A player is from Mongolia. Unlike professional sumo wrestlers, their hair was short.

They showed us their practices before the matches. They played shiko (a series of motions to raise a leg and to step it down – a practice to strengthen the player’s thigh), teppo (a practice to strengthen their pushing power) and matawari (a stretch practice).

They had a tournament competed by several groups and a tournament by individual players. They also had knockout competitions.

Some wrestlers played as many as 20 matches in about an hour and half.

The sounds made by the players (especially mada by the crash of two players at the beginning of the match) were heavy and strong. The impression was quite different from that I usually recieve from the sumo matches shown in the TV.

A ritual, in which a shinto priest showed his respect to the gods, was held before the tournament.

The sumo ring is made by soil and rice strews. It has connected with agriculture and harvest. Salt is thrown by the wrestlers before the match to clean the ring.

Hundreds of visitors enjoyed the event. I also enjoyed it.

Map: Setagaya Hachiman Shrine

Belgium Beer Weekend @Roppongi Hills: Sept. 11, 2010

I enjoyed Belgium beer at the Belgium Beer Weekend held at Roppongi Hills (Sept. 10-12, 2010).

The event was held in the inner court (arena) of the commercial complex. More than 40 brands of Belgium beer as well as Belgium foods -- famous “frites” fried potatoes, roast chickens and waffles – were sold at container shops which were placed around the arena. People drank the beer with special glasses designed for the event.

There was a stage in the arena. Musicians from Belgium played their music.
The "real" Beer Weekend started in Belgium in 1999 at Brussels’s famous Grand Place. Tokyo’s event is a copy of it. Tokyo is the first place except Brussels to hold such event.

Belgium beer has been more popular in Japan in current years.

Hundreds of people were enjoying Belgium beer, foods and music in the arena. Another hundreds of people were tasting their beer glasses on the grass around the arena.

I had not expected to see such number of people here as the event had not been widely known. There must have been good public relations activities by the organizers. The operations of the event were good.

Personally, I was in Belgium about 20 years ago. I’m glad to see more "Belgium related mattere" in Tokyo.

Map: Roppongi Hills

Kitazawa Hachiman Shrine@ Shimokitazawa: Sept. 5, 2010

There are many autumn festivals in Tokyo.
I visited a festival at Kitazawa Hachiman Shrine near Shimokitazawa, Setagaya ward today.

Hachiman shirines enshrine the Hachiman god, one of Japan’s traditional gods. There are about 8000 Hachiman shrines in Japan. The number is the second largest after Inari shrines among various shrines in Japan.

The festival is held to celebrate the harvest. It is also important as an opportunity of community’s gathering.
There are many stalls of foods, drinks and gifts in the shrine. Various performances including the lion dances, dram plays and songs were played in a open-air stage. The players are local people.

They also took portable shrines (mikoshi) and moved around the area. Some mikoshi were carried by the cheldren.

Visitors including many foreigners looked enjoying the festival.
Shopping streets hold various autumn festivals at this season. They usually have nothing to do with the country’s tradition or religion. They are commercial events. I found a small children’s festival held in Suzuran Street in Kyodo district on the Odakyu Line.

There will be many festivals through November. I am sure that I will visit tens of festivals in coming months.


Map: Kitazawa Hachiman

Small urban organic farm @ Seijo: Sept. 4, 2010

Most lands in Tokyo are covered with houses and buildings, but we find small urban farms around the city.

Most of them are preserved by the farmers to keep tax benefits. Some farmers, however, are trying to develop new businesses and activities.

Small urban farm have become an important topic in environmental protection and the sustainable development throughout the world in recent years.

I visited “Shisidoen” farm about 25 minutes walk from Seijogauen-mae of the Odakyu Line in Setagaya ward. The town is one of the highest-quality residential areas in Tokyo.

The farm is small (about 100 x 100 meters) and surrounded by houses and stores. Public buses run along the farm.

There are roses, blue berry, herbs, tomatoes and many other plants. They cultivate organic plants.　People can enjoy picking the blue berries (admission fee is requires).

They also keep honey bees.

We had massive death of the bees in last several years in Japan (like other countries in the world). Scientists doubt several reasons –- climate change, electromagnetic waves, chemical products, destruction of ecological cycle in the regions.

The farm owner said that he would like to send messages from the small farm.

Map: Shishidoen Farm