Nikko Kaido Walk (3)Soka-Koshigaya: May 5, 2026

 

I resumed my walk along the Nikko Kaido. Today's walk covered about 8 kilometers, from Soka (the second shukuba station from Nihonbashi) to Koshigaya (the third atation).

Soka City has a population of 250,000. It locates north of Adachi Ward in Tokyo and developed as a commuter town for Tokyo after World War 2.

The Nikko Kaido runs parallel to the Tobu Railway (Skytree Line). The buildings of the Edo-period were lost in this area by fire in the Meiji era. Nevertheless, many buildings with a traditional atmosphere remain along the Nikko Kaido. Some parts of the Nikko Kaido have wide bicycle lanes.

Soka is famous for “Soka senbei,” a brand of rice crackers baked with soy sauce. The senbei originated in the Edo period and became nationally known after the Meiji era. Many senbei shops stands along the Nikko Kaido.

I found a stone monument marking the birthplace of Soka senbei at the northern part of Soka shukuba station. (See the 2nd photo)

Passing through the shukuba station, I came across a row of pine trees. It is about 1.5 kilometer long and 643 Japanese black pine trees are planted along the Nikko Kaido. The place is known as Soka Matsubara. (See the top and 2nd photos)

The Ayase River flows along the pine row.

The pine tree-row was originally developed in the Edo period. However, many trees withered due to the effects of automobile exhaust after World War 2. People began to make efforts I the 1970s to replant trees and convert the area into a walking path. It has now become a place of relaxation for people.

Soka Matsubara is also known as a place associated with Matsuo Basho, a famous haiki poet in the Edo era, and with his work "Oku no Hosomichi." Basho’s statue stands here.

At Soka, the city’s administration and citizens are working together to preserve its history and promote tourism. I saw informational facilities and signs throughout the city.

Near Soka Matsubara, a large-scale housing complex, considered one of the largest in Asia at the time, was built in the 1960s. Currently, redevelopment has transformed it into a residential area with commercial facilities. The station name changed from the former Matsubara Danchi to Dokkyo University-mae.

I continued walking north and entered Koshigaya City. This area is low-laying, and there were signs warning of the risk of flooding.

Koshigaya is known for its doll-making industry. I found some doll shops along the Nikko Kaido.

 

Nihonbashi: July 16, 2025

 

I walked in and around the Nihonbashi area today.

Nihonbashi was originally the name of a bridge, and was the starting point of five major roads (kaido) in the Edo period.

I also started here when I walked the kaido (Tokaido, Nakasendo, Koshu Kaido, Nikko Kaido, Oshu Kaido) since 2010. I started walking the Tokaido in September 2010, and have visited this area frequently since then.

 

Currently, redevelopment projects are underway in this area, and the scenery is changing rapidly.

In the southeast block of Nihonbashi, redevelopment is underway, centering on a 284-meter-high building. It is scheduled to be completed in 2026.

 

There are also several large-scale redevelopment projects underway near Tokyo Station on the west side of Nihonbashi.

 

The highways runs over Nihonbashi now. However, there are plans to move the expressways underground and remove the aboveground sections around 2040.

 

Kabutocho, on the east side of Nihonbashi, has been the center of Japan's securities business since the Meiji period. It is home to the Tokyo Stock Exchange and dozens of securities companies.

 

However, the number of securities company offices has decreased compared to the past due to the shift to online trading and the mergers of securities companies.

 

There are also many foreign tourists in the Nihonbashi area, and tourist buses for foreigners are noticeable.

Coincidentally, on this same day (July 16th), the Japan National Tourism Organization announced tourism statistics. The number of tourists visiting Japan from January to June 2025 is up 7.6% from the previous year, exceeding 20 million for the first time. This will be a pace of 40 million people per year.

 

Nikko Kaido Walk (2) Senju-Soka: June 4, 2018

I took the second part of my Nikko Kaido Walk. 

It was from Senju, the 1^st shukuba station to Soka, the 3^rd.

I started today’s walk from Kitasenju railway station. Old Senju shukuba is a bloc from the railway station. Old Nikko Kaido is now a shopping street.

Various monuments remain.

Local people are eager to reserve Senju’s tradition and history. There is a guest house for visitors there.

Passing Senju shukuba, I arrived Arakawa River. It is an artificial river developed in the in the 1910s to prevent flood disaster.

Nikko Kaido goes northward through Adachi City (Ward)．There spread residential areas.

There are many apartment complexes in the area. They were developed 40-60 years ago when Japan was in the high-growth period. Most of them are old.

I stopped at Takenozuka. There are apartment complexes in front of the railway station. New commercial streets are developed in the place further from the station.

I walked northward and entered into Soka City in Saitama Prefecture. 

There is a small river called Kenaga River between Tokyo and Saitama.

Soka is famous for its rice crackers. There are some factories and stores along Nikko Kaido.

Many people commute to Tokyo from Soka.

Nikko Kaido Walk (1) Nihonbashi-Senju: May 16, 2018

Five most important roads in Japan were defined by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu at the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1867). 

They were:

- Tokaido (Edo (Tokyo) -Kyoto through coastal areas)

- Nakasendo (Edo-Kyoto through mountainous areas)

- Koshu Kaido (Edo- Shimosuwa in Nagano Prefecture)

- Nikko Kaido (Edo-Nikko in Tochigi Predecture)

- Oshu Kaido (Edo-Shirakawa in Fukushima Prefecture)

* Nikko Kaiso and Oshu Kaiso were on the same route from Edo to Utsunomiya, Tochigi Prefecture. Then, they branched into two roads.

I started my Nikko Kaido/Oshu Kaido walk following my Tokaido, Nakasendo and Koshu Kaido walks.

Nikko/Oshu Kaido had 17 shukuba stations between Nihonbashi and Utsunomiya, the branch point of the two roads.

All major five roads started from Nihonbashi. I began my Tokaido walk t eight years ago in 2010. There have been some changes during the period.

A new tourist office opened in 2017. It stands at the side of the Nihonbashi bridge.

It was announced that the motor highways, which run over the Nihonbashi bridge would be taken away and new underground roads would be built instead. The works are expected to begin in the 2020s.

Nihonbashi is now a busy shopping area. The headquarters of Mitsukoshi department store and other shops are there.

Nikko/Oshu Kaido goes through the areas near Nihonbashi, where many clothing wholesalers gather.

The road passes Kandagawa River, which goes into Sumida River, one of the city’s main rivers in the Edo era. I found many houseboats staying along the riversides.

I walked into Asakusabashi area, where many doll shops open their shops.

I walked about four kilometers before arriving in Asakusa area.

It is one of the most popular places for tourists in Tokyo. Many foreign visitors gathered at Kaminari-mon gate, where a big paper lantern hangs. Stuff members of tourist agents were moving rikisha carts for tourists.

Sumida River flows at the side of Asakusa. Tokyo Sky Tree stands over the river.

The road goes north along Sumida River (The road is now called Yoshino Street). 

I entered an area where many cheap hotels are. They began operating cheap inns in the Edo era. They were used by day-laborers in the Maiji (1867-1910), Taisho (1910-25) and Showa (1925-89) eras. Various labor troubles happened there.

Many hotels have been converted to the facilities for foreign backpackers after the 2000s. I found some hotels showing their information in English at the entrances.

I moved to Minami Senju area. The road goes over the rail lines. 

There existed an execution field in the Edo era. A sculpture of jizo or Ksitigarbha was built to console the sprits of the executed. It now sits at the side of railways. (See the second photo from the top).

The road crosses Sumida River with Senju Ohashi bridge. 

The riverside areas were redeveloped in the last 30 years. Many tall apartment buildings stand there.

Famous haiku poet Matsuo Basho started his Oku no hosomich walks in 1689 (in the Edo period). He walked through Tohoku and Hokuriku districts to Ogaki in Gifu Prefecture in his six months tour. He produced many masterpieces of haiku.

A picture of his departure scene is painted on the wall of Sumida River at the foot of Senju Ohashi bridge.

I entered Senju shukuba station, the first station from Nihonbashi.

Various kinds of monuments are preserved.

Former trader’s working place is now converted into a public space. A complex of community center and residential apartment was built behind the place.

Nikko/ Oshu Kaido is now converted into a shopping street in Senju. There are shopping and business facilities on and around Kita Senju railway stations of JR, Tobu and subways.