Nihonbashi: July 16, 2025

 

I walked in and around the Nihonbashi area today.

Nihonbashi was originally the name of a bridge, and was the starting point of five major roads (kaido) in the Edo period.

I also started here when I walked the kaido (Tokaido, Nakasendo, Koshu Kaido, Nikko Kaido, Oshu Kaido) since 2010. I started walking the Tokaido in September 2010, and have visited this area frequently since then.

 

Currently, redevelopment projects are underway in this area, and the scenery is changing rapidly.

In the southeast block of Nihonbashi, redevelopment is underway, centering on a 284-meter-high building. It is scheduled to be completed in 2026.

 

There are also several large-scale redevelopment projects underway near Tokyo Station on the west side of Nihonbashi.

 

The highways runs over Nihonbashi now. However, there are plans to move the expressways underground and remove the aboveground sections around 2040.

 

Kabutocho, on the east side of Nihonbashi, has been the center of Japan's securities business since the Meiji period. It is home to the Tokyo Stock Exchange and dozens of securities companies.

 

However, the number of securities company offices has decreased compared to the past due to the shift to online trading and the mergers of securities companies.

 

There are also many foreign tourists in the Nihonbashi area, and tourist buses for foreigners are noticeable.

Coincidentally, on this same day (July 16th), the Japan National Tourism Organization announced tourism statistics. The number of tourists visiting Japan from January to June 2025 is up 7.6% from the previous year, exceeding 20 million for the first time. This will be a pace of 40 million people per year.

 

Koshu Kaido Walk (18) Kanazawa – Kamisuwa: May 11, 2025

 

Today I walked from Kanazawa, the 44^th shukuba station from Tokyo (Edo), to Kamisuwa, the 45^th and last station of Koshu Kaido.

Kanazawa is close to Aoyagi Station on the JR Chuo Line. Old buildings remain here and there along the Koshu Kaido. I found traditional inns and trading stalls.

The road passes through mountainous areas. The rice fields in this area are used to dry agar in winter. Chino City is famous for producing naturally produced agar. There was a large sign reading "Agar Village" in the rice field. (See also the top photo)

 

I walked for about two hours and reached the center of Chino City. There was a Shinshu Miso store on the side of the road, and a miso barrel was placed in front of the store.

 

There are many shrines along the road. Even small shrines often have four pillars at each corner in this region. Miwa Shrine, close to the center of Chino, is also surrounded by four pillars.

 

The Kamisha (upper shrines) of Suwa Taisha are located in this area, and the Maemiya (front shrine) of the Kamisha is in Chino City. The main shrine of the Kamisha is in Suwa City.

During the Onbashira Festival, which is held once every six years, giant cedar trees cut down in the mountains are transported to the shrine. One route passes through Chino City. On the way, the pillars with many people on them go down a steep slope. The place of the big downhill is maintained in the Kiotoshi Park.

I found a torii gate leading to Suwa Taisha Shrine in front of JR Chino Railway station..

The Yatsugatake Mountains looked beautiful from Kamikawa Bridge near the Kiotoshi Park. 

 

 

After walking for about an hour from JR Chino Station, the Koshu Kaido entered Suwa City. The Northern Alps looked beautiful from the road.

 

I continued walking and entered Kamisuwa shukuba station. Kamisuwa is a major sake brewing area, and there are many sake breweries along the Koshu Kaido.

 

Koshu Kaido Walk (17) Tsutaki – Kanazawa: May 10, 2025

Having finished my walks in Tokyo, Kanagawa and Yamanashi prefectures, my Koshu Kaido walk entered Nagano prefecture. Today I walked from Tsutaki, the southernmost shukuba station in Nagano prefecture and the 43rd shukuba station from Tokyo (Edo), to Kanazawa, the 44th station. The distance is about 15 kilometers, and most of the area is in Fujimi-machi, Nagano prefecture.

The Koshu Kaido headed north-northwest through mountainous areas. The site of Tsutaki is now around National Route 20. 

The gate and walls of the main inn remain. The railroad was installed away from the Koshu Kaido in this area, and the shukuba became gradually quieter. 

 

The Koshu Kaido has turned to the national route in some places and has kept old situation in other places. Stone Buddha were seen at various points along the road. (See als the 2nd photo)

 

After walking for about two hours, I came across a huge solar power generation facility along the road. Fujimi-machi is known as one of the solar-panel clusters in Japan. They started to construct many solar plants in the 2010s becouse of long hours of sunlight in this region. There are now more than 1,000 solar power plants, both large and small.

In recent years, however, there have been disputes over the development of the plants as various conflicts between the developers and local residents have arisen. The town has begun to regulate construction.

In addition, there have been a series of incidents of copper cable theft from solar power plants nationwide. I found surveillance cameras installed at the plants. I also saw warning signs saying "under surveillance" on the fences. (see also the 4th photo)

As I walked further, I saw a huge greenhouse. This is the facility of the "Yatsugatake Mirai Farm," which is funded by the major food company Kagome and Fujimi-machi. Tomatoes are produced here and sent to Kagome's neighboring food factories.

 

After walking another hour, we came to the Misayama Godo Milestone. It is the 48th or 49th milestone from Edo, which is 192-196 km away. A large keyaki (zelkova) tree remains on the west side from the Edo period, and an enoki (Chinese hackberry) was planted on the east side in later years. This is the only place on the Koshu Kaido where a pair of mounds remain on both sides of the road. (See also the top photo)

 

The Koshu Kaido soon enters Chino City. There are many solar power plants in this area as well. JR Aoyagi Station is located just before Kanazawa shukuba station.

Koshu Kaido Walk (16) Daigahara(41/45)-Tsutaki(43/45): Sept.15, 2024

The summer of 2024 was extremely hot. Now, it is the middle of September and the heat is slightly easing. I had my Koshu Kaido walk (part 16).

I started Digahara, the 41st shukuba station from Tokyo's Nihonbashi. Many traditional buildings are preserved here as I wrote in this blog in April. Shichiken Brewery is one of the most impressive spots in Daigahara.

Koshi Kaido goes along rice and vegetable fields.

This area is near from the Southern Alps mountains and produces good water. There is a factory of Suntory beverage manufacturer in Hokuto City. They produce drinking water, whisky and other beverage products. I found a sign board to the factory.

I arrived at Kyoraishi, the 42^nd shukuba station. It was a small shukuba station and few shukuba-related facilities have preserved.

There remains a big stone in a cemetery in a temple nearby. The stone is an origin of the shukuba statin's name.

It was rice harvesting season. I saw many farmers working hard.

The rice fields in this area lie in along Kanamanashi River. There are mountains over the river. The fields were brown when harvesting had been over and were green when it had not been. The scene was beautiful. (See also the top and 2nd photos)

Walking 3-4 km from Kyoraishi, I arrived at the border between Yamanashi and Nagano Prefectures. I finished walking about 110 km in Yamanashi Prefecture. There are 25 shukuba stations there.

Walking about 1km, I arrived at Tsutaki, the 43re shukuba from Nihonbashi and the first in Nsagano Prefecture.

 

 

 

Koshu Kaido Walk (15) Nirasaki(40/45)-Daigahara(41/45): April 27, 2024

Today's walk between Nirasaki and Daigahara was about 16km. Due to public transportation service, I moved first to Daigahara by bus and walked down (toward Tokyo) to Nirasaki.

Daigahara shukuba station keeps many traditional buildings. It is a popular visiting spot to travelers. It is now in Hokuto City.

 

There stand buildings of Shichiken Brewery along Koshu Kaido in Daigahara. The brewer started its business in 1750. Today, they have exhibitions, a souvenir shop and a coffee shop in the buildings. (see also the top photo)

 

The View of Mt. Kaikoma (2967m) was beautiful from Daigahara.

 

There was a good view of Mt. Kaikoma and three Hoo Mountains (2764-2841m) from Oomukawa Bridge, about 5km from Daigahara.

 

Koshu Kaido runs narrow spaces between mountains. Kamanashi River and its branches flow along Koshu Kaido.

Because of geographical reasons, they repeatedly had floods in the past. They now face flood risks.

I found alarming signs of flood in many places in the area. They warned the possibility of 5 meter-high flood in Hokuto City,

The risk of 3 meter-high flood was displayed with a red-tape mark in Nirasaki City.

 

Entering in Nirasaki City, I found mountains with huge rock walls standing along Kamanashi River.

Big round rocks spread in the riverbanks. They seemed to have been moved here by floods.

 

I found industry waste processing factories, solar panel generators and many distribution centers along Koshu Kaido in this part.

 

Nirasaki declares itself as a city of football, Takeda Family’s homeland and a good view of Mt. Fuji. Such information is displayed in front of JR Nirasaki starion.