Nikko Kaido Walk (1) Nihonbashi-Senju: May 16, 2018

Five most important roads in Japan were defined by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu at the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1867). 

They were:

- Tokaido (Edo (Tokyo) -Kyoto through coastal areas)

- Nakasendo (Edo-Kyoto through mountainous areas)

- Koshu Kaido (Edo- Shimosuwa in Nagano Prefecture)

- Nikko Kaido (Edo-Nikko in Tochigi Predecture)

- Oshu Kaido (Edo-Shirakawa in Fukushima Prefecture)

* Nikko Kaiso and Oshu Kaiso were on the same route from Edo to Utsunomiya, Tochigi Prefecture. Then, they branched into two roads.

I started my Nikko Kaido/Oshu Kaido walk following my Tokaido, Nakasendo and Koshu Kaido walks.

Nikko/Oshu Kaido had 17 shukuba stations between Nihonbashi and Utsunomiya, the branch point of the two roads.

All major five roads started from Nihonbashi. I began my Tokaido walk t eight years ago in 2010. There have been some changes during the period.

A new tourist office opened in 2017. It stands at the side of the Nihonbashi bridge.

It was announced that the motor highways, which run over the Nihonbashi bridge would be taken away and new underground roads would be built instead. The works are expected to begin in the 2020s.

Nihonbashi is now a busy shopping area. The headquarters of Mitsukoshi department store and other shops are there.

Nikko/Oshu Kaido goes through the areas near Nihonbashi, where many clothing wholesalers gather.

The road passes Kandagawa River, which goes into Sumida River, one of the city’s main rivers in the Edo era. I found many houseboats staying along the riversides.

I walked into Asakusabashi area, where many doll shops open their shops.

I walked about four kilometers before arriving in Asakusa area.

It is one of the most popular places for tourists in Tokyo. Many foreign visitors gathered at Kaminari-mon gate, where a big paper lantern hangs. Stuff members of tourist agents were moving rikisha carts for tourists.

Sumida River flows at the side of Asakusa. Tokyo Sky Tree stands over the river.

The road goes north along Sumida River (The road is now called Yoshino Street). 

I entered an area where many cheap hotels are. They began operating cheap inns in the Edo era. They were used by day-laborers in the Maiji (1867-1910), Taisho (1910-25) and Showa (1925-89) eras. Various labor troubles happened there.

Many hotels have been converted to the facilities for foreign backpackers after the 2000s. I found some hotels showing their information in English at the entrances.

I moved to Minami Senju area. The road goes over the rail lines. 

There existed an execution field in the Edo era. A sculpture of jizo or Ksitigarbha was built to console the sprits of the executed. It now sits at the side of railways. (See the second photo from the top).

The road crosses Sumida River with Senju Ohashi bridge. 

The riverside areas were redeveloped in the last 30 years. Many tall apartment buildings stand there.

Famous haiku poet Matsuo Basho started his Oku no hosomich walks in 1689 (in the Edo period). He walked through Tohoku and Hokuriku districts to Ogaki in Gifu Prefecture in his six months tour. He produced many masterpieces of haiku.

A picture of his departure scene is painted on the wall of Sumida River at the foot of Senju Ohashi bridge.

I entered Senju shukuba station, the first station from Nihonbashi.

Various kinds of monuments are preserved.

Former trader’s working place is now converted into a public space. A complex of community center and residential apartment was built behind the place.

Nikko/ Oshu Kaido is now converted into a shopping street in Senju. There are shopping and business facilities on and around Kita Senju railway stations of JR, Tobu and subways.