2016-05-11

Nakasendo Walk (11) Kutsukake(19/69)-Iwamurada(22/69): May3, 2016



The Nakasendo in the eastern part of Nagano Prefecture or Saku area is called Shinano-ji. I walked there in the second part of the Golden Week holiday. It was nice season for walking outside. The air was fresh and the mountains were beautiful.

Today’s walk started from Kutsukake, the 19th shukuba station.

I walked a few kilometers along the gentle rising slope and arrived in the district of Oiwake, the 20th station. It locates at about 1000 meter high above the sea level. It is the highest shukuba station not only in Nakasendo, but also in all stations of five major routs of the Edo period. The five routs are Tokaido, Nakasendo, Koushu Kaido, Nikko Kaido and Oushu Kaido.

Oiwake used to be a sanatorium in the early 20th century. Many patients with tuberculosis and other diseases stayed here. Famous novelist Hori Tatsuo was one of them. The tradition of literature remains even today. I found Hori’s literature memorial attracted tourists. (See the end photo from top)


A second-hand book shop was open in front of the memorial. I also found small cottage-shape boxes here and there in the area. They are placed to exchange used books.

There stands a Nakasendo museum near Oiwake station. It was built 12 years ago by a Nakasendo specialist Yutaka Kishimoto. Interesting materials including Ukiyoe prints, art crafts of the regions, photos and books are displayed. I was warmly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Kishimoto and stayed nearly two hours. Their talks were interesting.

There spread large fields of lettuce at the sides of Nakasendo near Otai, the 21st station. Some fields were covered with the nets. They are necessary as the vegetables were grown without using pesticide here. (see also the top photo


I saw a waterway places at the side of the street in Otai station. It was in the center of the street in the Edo era. Now, it is replaced. I found that the water was affluent and clean.

I mover westwards and arrived at Iwamurada, the 22nd shukuba station. It is near to the Sakudaira station of the Hokuriku Shinkansen (bullet train).


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