Nakasendo Walk (1) Nihonbashi-Toda: Oct. 13, 2012

Nakasendo is one of 5 major national roads in the Edo era (other 4 are Tokaido, Koshu Kaido, Nikko Kaido and Oshu kaido).

It linked Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto through mountain area, whereas Tokaido linked the two cities through seaside area. Nakasendo went through Tokyo, Saitama, Gunma, Nagano, Gifu, Shiga, and Kyoto (in current prefecture names). It had 69 shukuba stations. 

I started my walk from Nihonbashi toward north-northwest. Department stores gather in the area. Mitsukoshi Department store, which has developed from a famous clothing shop Echigoya established in 1673, had long been a top brand in the country. Bank of Japan's headquarters is also in the area.

I walked through JR Kanda station, Akihabaya electronic shop area and arrived in Kanda Myojin Shrine. It is one of Tokyo's most famous shrines. Many visitors were there. A wedding ceremony was taking place.

I moved to Hongo area, where many Daimyo (local ruler) houses were in the Edo area. Leading Daimyo Maeda family's house had turned into the University of Tokyo and famous "Red Gate" remains.

Ohter historical buildings and monuments also remain in the area. I dropped in Daienji Temple and Enjoji Temple, where a tomb and a monument of Yaoya Ohichi, the most famous arsonist in Japan's history, remain. She placed fire to make an opportunity to meet her one-sided lover. She was later arrested executed in Suzugamori.

I proceeded to Sugamo, a popular place among elder people. Many visitors gathered in Koganji Temple or Togenuki Jizo. It is believed to call good heath.

I arrived in Itabashi, the first shukuba station. Itabashi meand a wooden bridge. Current concrete bridge is built as if it is made of wood. The area is now a community-oriented shopping area.

I dropped in Enkiri Enoki, which was believed to bring separation (of man and woman etc.) in the Edo era. Many wish tablets were hanging in the boards. The wishes included “May Mr. A and his wife divorce, then I wish marry him”.

A pair of nettle trees remain at the sides of Nakasendo at Shimura, Itabashi ward. The trees were planted in every 4 kilometers and the places were called Ichiri-zuka (milestone) in the Edo era. National Rout 17 runs on old Nakasendo. Many cars ran through the trees.

I crossed a bridge over Arakawa River,which flows Tokyo-Saitama border.  The first city in Saitama Prefecture was Toda. It was about 15 km from Nihonbashi.

Mt. Fuji and beautiful landscapes of Japan from the sky: Oct. 10, 2012

I flow from Haneda (Tokyo International Airport) to Kansai International Airport near Osaka (Sorry, it is not walking).

The weather was nice and I could take good pictures from the plane.


Mt. Fuji had no snow on its top.

Fuji River, Oi River and Tenryu River flow through green mountains and cities.



Kinokawa River flows through Wakayama City into the sea.

Koshu Kaido Walk (3) Chofu-Fuchu: Oct.9, 2012

Today is a national holiday (Health and Sports day). I took the 3rd part of my Koshu Kaido Walk.

It was from Chofu, the 3rd shukuba station from Nihonbashi, to Fuchu, the 4th station.

There stood replicas of heroes from “Gegege no Kitaro”, famous manga written by Shigeru Mizuki, in a small street spread from Koshu Kaiso near Chofu railway station. Kitaro is a monster, but he is loved by children as he fights against evils to help people. Mizuki lives in Chofu and is an honorable citizen of the city.

Chofu station was under construction works to move railways from the ground to underground.

Old Koshu Kaido goes through residential areas in Chofu city. National Rout 20 (new Koshu Kaido) and Keio Dentetsu railroad run along old Koshu Kaido.

A sculpture of Kondo Isamu, a tragic soldier in the late Edo era, was placed in a temple along the street. Kondo served as a head of Shinsen-gumi, a guard organization of the Tokugawa government. He and his organization lost the war with anti-Tokugawa group and he was executed by decapitation. Chofu is a hometown of Kondo and Shinsen-gumi.

I arrived at “Ajinomoto” football stadium in west Chofu. It is a home ground of FC Tokyo football team. The turn-round point of marathon race at Tokyo Olympic Games in 1964 was places in front of the stadium. A monument and a sing board were there.

It was 26 kilometer from Nihonbashi.

Vegetable fields appeared at the side of Koshu Kaido.

I moved to Fuchu, the 5th shukuba station. Historical Okunitama Shrine is in front of Fuchu railway station.

A big shinboku, a tree decorated with religious straw ropes, stood along Koshu Kaido.

There remains Kosatsujo near the shrine. Kosatsujo was a place where official documents were desplayed in the Edo era.

I walked another several kilometers from Fuchu to Nishifu railway station. I found open-air stalls where they sold pears produced in the area. They were sold with "Tamagawa Nashi" brand.

The goal today was about 32 kilometers from Nihonbashi.

Koshu Kaido Walk (2) Takaido-Chofu: Oct. 7, 2012

I took the 2nd part of Koshu Kaido walk today. It was from Shimotakaid, part of the 2nd shukuba station from Nihonbashi, to Chofu, where the third station was placed.

The 2nd station was called Takaido. Lower and upper Takaido (Kamitakaido and Shimotakaido) stations were used in rotation in the Edo era.


Historical monuments in and along Koshu Kaido (in Tokyo) is not so well preserved as Tokaido.

There remain no inns or shukuba facilities now. I just found a signboard at a place where a milestone was placed.

Koshu Kaido has turned into National Route 20 here. Highways run over the street. Many cars run in both Koshu Kaido and highways.

Automobile dealers, motor bike shops, craft shops, Chinese noodle restaurants and many other shops and restaurants are open along the street.


Old Koshu Kaido separates from and merges with National Route 20. Keyaki or zelkova trees are planted in the sidewalks in some places.

 I passed Tokyo’s Suginami ward and Setagaya ward and entered into Chofu city.

Several inns scattered around here (Chofu city) in the Edo era. The place was called Fuda 5 shukuba station. It is 20-24 kilometers from Nihonbashi.

An autumn festival was held at Kokuryo, Chofu city. People played a big Japanese dram there. A tall apartment house was behind the festival site.

Koshu Kaido Walk(1) Nihonbashi-Takaido: Sept.29, 2012

Five major routes connected Edo (Tokyo) and Japan’s main regions in the Edo period. They were:

*Tokaido (Edo-Kyoto via coastal area) 53 stations (shukuba)
*Nakasendo (Edo-Kyoto through mountain area) 69 stations
*Koshu Kaido (Edo-Kofu-Suwa) 38 stations
*Nikko Kaido (Edo-Nikko) 21 stations
*Oshu Kaido (edo-Tohoku area) 27 stations

I am walking Tokaido in last two years (I passed 28 stations). Today, I started to walk Koshu Kaido.

The route, as well as other four major routes, begins Nihonbashi, downtown Tokyo. It is now a busy commercial area.

The route goes through Tokyo railway station. The station will have a renewal open on October 1st. (A special display event was held on September 22nd. See “Tokyo Station Vision”). Many people were taking photos of the building.

The route goes along the moats of the Imperial Palace. Skyscrapers were built along the route. I saw many joggers and cyclists.

Apart from the palace, I headed for Shinjuku through Yotsuya. The part is now called Shinjuku-Dori Street. The street is always busy and noisy.

Shinjuku was the first station (shukuba) of Koshu Kaido. The area is, needless to say, the busiest commercial area in Tokyo. I passed Shinjuku 3chome corner, one of the most crowded corners in Shinjuku. It was almost impossible to move quickly as there were so many people. Isetan department store and other famous shops are there.

I walked through JR Shinjuku station. 3 to 3.5 million people use the station every day and the number is the largest in the world’s railway stations.

Koshu Kaido goes to west from Shinjuku. Current name of the street is also Koshu Kaido. Motor highways are built over the street.


I walked through 54 story Tokyo Opera City building in Hatsudai and arrived at Shimotakaido, the 2nd shukuba station.

Tokyo Station Vision: Sept 22, 2012

“New opening” of Tokyo Station is planned in October 1st. The station originally opened in 1914, but was destroyed in the World War 2. In 2007, the construction works to restore the buildings in original design stared and it is almost finished.

A special event titled “Tokyo Station Vision” was held today. It was an audio and visual show displayed in the walls of the red brick station.

Appearance of the station in various colors as well as railway-related images, abstract designs and nature scenes were displayed in about 10 minutes show.

46 projectors were used to compose pictures in about 200 meter-wide screen. The station is about 320 meter wide.

Thousands of people gathered in front of the station. Applause rippled after the show.

Hibiya Park and Imperial Palace: Sept 22, 2012

It was Autumnal Equinox Day today.

We had a very hot and long summer this year. The temperature went up over 30 degrees until mid September. We at last felt the change of the season this week.


I visited central Tokyo to feel the capital’s autumn.

I walked around Hibiya Park. The park lies south of the Imperial Palace. The other directions are surrounded by the government offices in Kasumigaseki and business and commercial buildings in Hibiya.

There are Japanese gardens, ponds, and western flower gardens in the park. The singing of insects was heard. Tokyo people as well as foreign tourist were enjoying the season.

I also walked around the Imperial Palace along its moats. The banks of the palace were green and swans and other water birs were swimming elegantly.


I met joggers every 30 seconds in my about an hour walk. Jogging was said to be a boom ten years ago. Now It is becoming a part of daily lived for many Tokyo people.

Fujinomiya (off off Tokyo): Sept.17, 2012

I visited Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture.

The city locates at the foot of Mr. Fuji and we can enjoy close scene of the mountain when the weather is good. It was unfortunately rainy and I could not see it.

The city is also famous for Sengen Shrine (official name is Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha). The shrine is the head of about 1300 Sengen of Asama shrines in Japan. The shrines worship Mt. Fuji and other volcanos.

There locates Wakutamaike pond in the shrine. Fresh water from Mr. Fuji comes out from the ground here and composes a pond. The water is said to be one of the most clean waters in the region.


I saw many water birds swimming.

Sri Lanka Festival@ Yoyogi Park: Spt. 8, 2012

It is still hot in Tokyo, but the season is changing into autumn.

The sun moves lower now than summer. The leaves of some trees started to fall. The cicada sounds are not so laud as summer days.

I visited Yoyogi Park to see Sri Lanka Festival. Tens of curry restaurant as well as tea, pepper and fork craft shops were open.

There were thousands of Japanese, but I also found many Sri Lankan as well as Indians (and maybe Pakistanis and Bangladeshis) there.

Indian (and Sri Lankan, Pakistani and Bangladeshi) foods are becoming more and more popular in Japan.

I usually do not pay attention to the difference between Indian, Sri Lankan, Pakistani and Bangladeshi restaurant.

Today, I recognized it is Sri Lankan.

The taste was modified so as to fit Japanese people. I enjoyed it.

Local dance and other performances were played. A PR balloon was floating over the festival site.