Shimosuwa: May 10, 2025

I visited Shimosuwa for the first time in eight years. (article in May, 2016) On my last visit, I enjoyed walking along the Nakasendo and had the opportunity to see the Onbashira Festival. This time, I stayed there as a base for walking along the Koshu Kaido. 

Shimosuwa is a town with rich history.

There are four shrines in total at Suwa Taisha (Suwa Grand Shrine). The two shrines of Kamisha -- main shrine and front shrine -- are located on the south (southeast) side of Lake Suwa; the two shrines of Shimosha – Harumiya (the spring shrine) and Akimiya (the autumn shrine) -- are located in Shimosuwa Town, which lies on the north side of Lake Suwa. This time I visited Akimiya (the autumn shrine).

As I visited the shrine on a Saturday morning, there were not many visitors and the site was quiet. Shrine maidens were sweeping the grounds.

There are buildings such as the Kaguraden and the Heihaiden. The Kaguraden was decorated with a huge shimenawa rope, and two lion dogs were guarding the building.

 

Pillars made of giant cedar trees are erected at the four corners of the Heihaiden. The pillars are called Onbashira and are replaced every six years. Giant trees are cut down in the mountains and are transported into the shrines. This ceremony is called the Onbashira Festival and is a famous traditional event in Suwa. ( I saw it eight years ago as described above)

 

Thethere was a shukuba station town in front of Akimiya developed in the Edo era. Now it is lined with hot spring inns and souvenir shops.

The main inn of the shukuba station in the Edo era is preserved.

Hot springs gushed out from many places along the road.