Military bases and war history in Okinawa: Dec. 28-31, 2016

It is not possible to talk about Okinawa without referring to the U.S. military bases in the islands. It is also not possible to know Okinawa without understanding its history, especially the tragedy of the Okinawa battle during the World War 2.

I moved around the main island and watched the bases, stations, camps, and other related facilities of the U.S. forces as well as the memorials of the Okinawa battle.

There are more than 20 bases and other facilities in the Okinawa main island. They occupy about 20% of total area of the island.

Futenma Marine Corp Air Station is often said to be the “most dangerous military airport” in the world. It locates in Ginowan City, about 7 kilometers north of Naha, the prefecture’s capital. About 100 thousand people live in the city.

The Futenma station lies in the very center of the city. Thousands of houses stand around the station.

The planes fly very low over the residential houses. There was a crash accident in the neighboring university in 2004.

I could see the whole view of the station and the houses around it from a hill nearby.

I found about 20 Osprey planes deployed in the station. The plane, officially called the Bell Boeing V-22 Osprey, is a multi-mission, tiltrotor military aircraft. The deployment of the plane is a matter of controversy in Japan on is safety and other issues. (See the top photo)

Many people were there to watch the station.

I also visited Kadena Air Base, about 10 kilometers north from Futenma. The base has two 3700 meters-long runways. It is the largest U.S. air base in Asia.

We can see the base from the upper floor of the Michinoeki Kadena, a commercial facility which stands at the side of the base.

Many cameramen and other people were watching the base when I visited Michinoeki Kadena.

I watched takeoffs and landings of various kinds of airplanes, ranging from fighters to cargo planes and Ospreys. Th takeoff took place every five minutes. (See the 5th photo from the top)

I heard the planes making big sound. It continued overtime.

Kadena Air Base lies in two towns and a city (Kadena Town, Chatan Town and Okinawa City). It has not only military facilities but also residential areas, schools and sports facilities. One of the gates is in Okinawa City. 

Camp Hansen has huge training areas. Its main gate is in Kin Town.

There spread commercial and entertainment districts in front of the main gate. The U.S. soldiers drink, eat and play in the districts. (see the 4th photo from the top)

A restaurant in Kin Town started to serve taco rice, a rice bowl with tacos ingredients decades ago. It has become popular. Kin Town is now known as the birthplace  of Taco rice.

The soldiers used much money in the town at the time of the Vietnam War in the 1960s and 1970s. Now, they spend longer time in the camp and use less money in the town.  Some stores closed their shutters.

I visited Henoko in Nago City. It is in Camp Schwab. 

The beach and the sea are beautiful in the area (See als the 2nd photo from the top).



We have a big dispute in Japan over Henoko.

Japan and the U.S. agreed to close Futenma Station and to move its facilities to Henoko in 1996. They plan to build two runways and other facilities in the seashore areas. There arose a movement to oppose to the plan.

There have been political zigzags in the last 20 years. Current Okinawa Governor Takeshi Onaga opposes to the plan and  has judicial battles with the national government while keeps talks with them.

Views are divided in Okinawa and even in Henoko. People in the small village used to live on fishery. Some of them are now forking for Camp Hansen.

Dugongs live in the area.They will not able to live once the facilities are made.

The government started the construction works in December after the Supremo Court issued a judgement which support the government (in a case). Those who oppose the construction took actions such as demonstrations both on the land and in the sea. There was few such moves when I visited there as it was new year's eve.

There was a hanging curtain to appeal to oppose the construction. (See the 3rd photo from the top)

I saw several tents of the group who oppose to the plans in front of Camp Schwab's gate.

The Himeyuri monument is quite near from the southern seashore. The monument console the soles of the people including young girls, who were forced to work as nurses with the imperial forces in during the Okinawa battles in the World War 2 in 1945, and eventually were killed or forced to commit suicide when Japan lost the battle. (See the 6th photo from the top)

The nearby museum explains the details on what happened. I was sad to know their tragedy and was furious with the irresponsible policies of the political leaders then. The origami cranes were devoted to them.

I also visited the Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters. They fought here against the U.S. forces before the commanders committed suicide in June 1945, about two months after the U.S. forces landed Okinawa on April 1st of the year.

A photo of the landing was displayed. Around 150 thousands Okinawa people were killed in the war. Okinawa's population at the time was 600 thousands.