Sekigahara: May 2, 2019

The Battle of Sekigahara is one of the most famous and important battles in Japanese history.

Total 160-thousand soldiers in two groups – the eastern army lead by Tokugage Ieyasu and the western army lead by Ishida Mitsunari -- crashed here in 1600 for the country’s hegemony. With the victory of the battle, Tokugawa Ieyasu became a ruler of the nation and about 260 years of the Edo era practically began.

I visited Sekigahara during my Nakasendo walk.

Sekigahara is a narrow flat place (about 2 km by 4km) surrounded by hills and mountains. The ground remains as it was 400 years ago. Many history lovers visit the place to review the old battle and to think of the heroes and unknown soldiers who participated in the event.

We can see the panorama of Sekigahara from the hills. This is a scene from Mt. Sasao, where Ishida Mitsunari placed his camp.

 Local people explained tourists battle-related stories. (See the top photo)

Kuroda Nagamasa and Takenaka Shigekado, who belonged to the eastern army, had a camp on Okayama. They shot signal fires from here.

Fierce fights were taken place at the foot of Mt. Sasao. The eastern army finally beat Ishida Mitsunari’s army, which practically ended the battle. Flags of Tokugawa Ieyasu and Ishida Mitsunari are places in the site. (See the 2nd photo from the top)

There spread rice fields in the area. The farmers were busy in planting works.

This is the place where Tokugawa Ieyasu’s final camp was placed and he saw the victory of the battle. Awards and punishments of the participants were decided here. The decisions formed the basic framework of the country from the early 1600 to the 1860s (Edo era).

The ruins of rural rulers who participated in the battle, flags of such rulers, tombs of the dead and other memorials are found in many places in Sekigawaha.

This monument is placed at where Fukushima Masonori's camp, who belonged to the eastern army, located.

The monument of Todo Taketora and Kyogoku Takatomo, both belonged to the eastern army, is in a ground of junior high school.

This is where Shimazu Yoshihiro’s camp, which belonged to the western army, was. Shimazu succeeded to escape from the site after western army’s defeat and survived as a ruler of Satsuma (Kagoshima Prefecture) during the Edo era.

This is a tomb of Otani Yoshitsugu, who dared to join western army despite his sickness to keep his promise with Ishida Mitsunari.

Head mounds were built after the battle to comfort the minds of the dead.

I saw kids playing with local guides in samurai costumes. (See the 3rd photo)

I also found various kinds of signs and graphics displayed in the town. (See also the 4th photo)

Every Japanese people, including me, know something about Sekigahara. But it is just a small part. I have learned quite a lot in Sekigahara.

Sekigahara experienced another important battle in Japanese history. It was Jinshin War in 673 (nearly 1000 years before the Battle of Sekigahara). Prince Oama and Prince Otomo (Emperor Kobun) fought here. Prince Oama won the battle and became the Emperor Tenmu.

Both armies crashed at the Fujiko River.