2010-09-25

Tokaido Walk (1): Sept. 25, 2010
















Five major roads (Edo Five Routes) were built to connect Edo (Tokyo) and other parts of Japan in the Edo era. They are Tokaido, Nakasendo, Koshu Kaido, Oshu Kaido and Nikko Kaido.

Tokaido, which connects Edo and Kyoto through the Pacific coast area, was the most important and busiest  road in the Tokugawa Shogun era.

It was 495 kilometers from Edo (Nihonbashi) to Kyoto (Sanjo Ohashi). Tokaido had 53 stations (excluding Nihonbashi and Sanjo Ohashi) shich had traveler's inns, horse stables and other travel facilities. The stations were called “Shukuba”.

Most parts of Tokaido road have been redeveloped after the Meiji period and are now used as national highways. National Rout 1, which connects Tokyo and Kobe through Kyoto, runs on old Tokaido in many parts (National Rout 15 runs on old Tokaido in Tokyo).

Today, I took the first part of Tokaido walk.

All Edo Five Routs started Nihonbashi, which means Japan Bridge. It is about 1-2 kilometers east from the Imperial palace (former Edo Castle). The area is not far from the sea and was nearer from the seacoast in the Edo era.

There is a monument which shows "the basing point" of Japan’s roads. Many Edo people started their travels here.

However, it was difficult for me to feel historic mood. Many vehicles passed the bridge. A highway ran over the bridge. It was noisy. The river (canal) under the bridge was dirty.

Shops and offices spread around Nihonbashi.The headquarters of the Bank of Japan is in the area.

National Rout 15 runs on old Tokaido today. I walked westwards about 20 minutes and arrived in Ginza, one of Tokyo’s busiest shopping areas. The road was off vehicle.

I walked through Shinbashi, Shiba, Hamamatsucho, Tamachi and arrived in Shinagawa. It was about 7.5 kilometers and took about an hour and half.

There were many offices and apartments along the road. I also found historical buildings such as temples and shrines and monuments. The traffic was heavy in the road.


Shinagawa is the first station of Tokaido. The old Tokaido road remains in the area. It is a narrow street. Small shops and restaurants are along the street. There are many sign boards and flags which stress that "it is historic Shinagawa station of Tokaido".

They had a festival of Shinagawa shukuba (old station) today.



I walked about two hours and arrived at the ruin of an execution ground in Suzugamori. Rebels, murderers, arsonists and many other criminals were executed here. Some of them are historically famous. They include Marubashi Chuya, a rebel and Yaoya Ohichi, a youg woman arsonist. Their stories are played in the Kabuki plays.

The old Tokaido road meets National Rout 15 again at Suzugamori. It is about 12 kilometers from Nihonbashi.


Map: Nihonbashi
Map: Shinagawa
Map: Suzigamori

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